I bought this undercard in the CSN and of course I regretted it. There are tips on how to fix this problem in the toranet, but it didn’t work out right away, although I did exactly the same with the same thermal pads. Perhaps due to the fact that I have a completely crooked aluminum “gasket” between the main heatsink and the memory.
This is the reverse side of the “product” that “contacts” with the main radiator and where the advisers suggest putting 1 mm thick thermal pads. But even in the photo you can see that the left parts are running horizontally, a little lower by about 0.2 mm. But that’s not the point, 1 mm. too much for it, 0.5 is too small, because of this, the main heatsink does not make good contact with the GPU, and it also played the role of replacing native thermal pads that fell apart when the card was disassembled.
The first thing I did was remove the paint, then completely changed the native thermal pads, assembled in the reverse order, and not like on the Internet. From a casing with coolers in general decided to refuse. In the photo, the board is already screwed to the radiator.
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Plus, in this place, when the board was pulled, it arched due to new thermal pads, or this was originally HZ. In general, in this way I leveled it. In the aluminum radiator, which is native, threads are cut for these bolts, a 3 mm thermal pad is laid under the board. 5 mm wide, about 5 cm long, I didn’t take a picture of it for laziness.
In the end it turned out something like this. The main radiator has not yet been screwed on, it is also a refinement. Two bolts were replaced (just the ones that are not in the photo). Due to the fact that relatives cannot pull the main radiator well enough because of the fat ones of 1 mm. thermal pads.
I screwed the valve to the radiator at random with self-tapping screws and glued the bolts a little with lactide, because if the palette suddenly kicks up and turns them on 100%, they will simply fly away into space.
This is the result with average optimization in nicehash. Before this vandalism, the temperature was 112 with slight optimization and, accordingly, the card degraded and did not work, it was possible to set up about 55 Machs at a temperature of 104-106, which is not 110, and it seems to be normal, but if you want less than 100, then it will turn out very little. This is all at 50% valves. I note that I wanted to put the card in my computer and just play on it since such a ***** happened, but the sound of the turbine from under the table forced me to commit this defilement with the card.